Dinner at ōkta in McMinnville

Remember how I bragged about the 60+ degree weather last week for my birthday? Talk about a sharp contrast with it being 29 out this morning, but it didn’t stop me from getting outside. It also didn’t stop a sister and brother from playing basketball this morning while I was walking Globgor.

As I walked by, their mom was outside recording the moment on her iPhone. I said, “Good morning,” and I am sure she thought I was judging her because her response was, “They were getting on each other's nerves inside. So I told them to work out their energy outside!” I hope she didn’t think I was judging her. I thought it was so awesome to see siblings whipping out a basketball game before school in the freezing cold. I walked away with a massive smile on my face.

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Dr Robert Gross was honored at the Oregon Wine Symposium this week.​

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This week’s newsletter starts with a question for you. Would you judge me for diving into a restaurant this week instead of a winery? I promise there will be wine involved. I mean, how can you talk about food without having wine, and of course, how could it not be a newsletter without 42 backstories?

Enough delay already. Let’s dive into Okta!

In July of 2022, a new restaurant opened its door to the public in the heart of McMinnville with highly acclaimed American chef Matthew Lightner. Matthew grew up in the PNW and has worked at many renowned restaurants, including Castagna, Accanto in Portland, and Mugaritz in Spain. He was named one of the “Best New Chefs” in 2010 by Food & Wine magazine. In 2013, he opened Atera in New York City, focusing on foraged ingredients and molecular gastronomy. Critics widely praised Atera, and Lightner earned a reputation as one of the most exciting chefs in the United States.

2017 saw the opening of another restaurant called Ninebark in Napa, known for its creative and sophisticated cuisine incorporating seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. The defining feature of Ninebark was its approach to foraging. Chef Lightner would personally gather ingredients from Napa Valley sources to incorporate into the menu.

Okta is similar to Ninebark, with locally foraged ingredients focusing on Japanese and French-inspired cuisine. There is one difference, though. Chef Lightner forages from his farm located in Ribbon Ridge.

I could go on and on with the backstory, and don’t worry, I will dive into more backstories, but I feel we need to start already.

I made a reservation about a week in advance. The only option available was getting drinks and small bites in the cellar basement, but I was determined to experience Okta, even if it was the tiniest little taste. The next day, I got an email letting me know it wasn’t for an entire dinner reservation, but there was an option saying, “If you would like to change your reservation for the dining room, please respond, and we will do our best to accommodate.” So, of course, I replied! I had nothing to lose. For the day and time I wanted, there was nothing available, but a couple of days before my reservation, I got an email letting me know a reservation had been canceled and asking me if I would like the reservation. I jumped on it faster than a Sparkling cork getting sabered for New Year's Eve. My reservation was set with a confirmation email and valet parking details.

I usually don’t mention valet parking details, but Holy Toledo, when I parked, I was a tiny bit scared when the valet didn’t take my name or any details.

Walking in the front door, the maitre d’ greeted us, took coats, and described what was on the menu for the evening. I don’t remember anything he said. I was trying my best to take everything in. The one tidbit I remember is we get a list of menu items after dinner. So, this means I have no idea what I am eating or what is coming. Gulp, this is scary, but also, oh hell yeah, for the adventure!

I started things off with a cocktail. I don’t remember what it was, and I didn’t take a picture of the cocktail menu either. All I can say is Holy Toledo, it was amazing! Also, take a look at the water glass from Kimura Glass. It’s so simple and complex!

The wine list was huge, and I was determined to have something from somewhere other than Oregon. Looking through the pages upon pages, I decided on a Nebbiolo for some strange reason. When the SOMM (I capitalize SOMM because of the movie. I wonder if this is correct) came over, we chatted a little. I mentioned I was leaning towards a Nebbiolo and asked for a suggestion. He agreed and said he would be back with some choices.

If you remember the first SOMM movie, it was about a group going after their Master of Sommeliers certification. All of the intricate details they were studying the SOMM was also doing. For example, he had a table in the middle of the floor decanting bottles with a candle under the bottle so he could see the sediment, ensuring it didn’t get into the decanter. It was fascinating to watch!

I was also mesmerized by the wait staff. It reminded me of a carefully choreographed parade of people constantly moving through the dining room to ensure every detail was taken care of for all tables. It felt like the beautiful and intricate dance of synchronized swimmers taking plates away, filling water glasses, bringing food, and everything else.

The first course landed on the table, and there wasn’t any wine yet, but the SOMM immediately remedied the situation. He poured some 2021 Antiquum Rose. I told him I didn’t realize they had a Rose, and he got a big smile. We talked a bit more and found out he followed me on the Gram. I, of course, had to ask him who he was and what his handle was.

The SOMM is Ron Acierto, and his IG handle is pinoynoirpdx. Please follow Ron, and of course, I have to dive into some more backstories!

Ron moved to the US from the Philippines when he was 15 to Fort Wayne, Indiana. His passion for wine has come from a constant pursuit of curiosity. His passion for hospitality comes from growing up in the Philippines, where a “Hello” is replaced with, “What have you eaten today?” Hospitality is built into his culture.

Cutting his teeth in fine dining in Indianapolis, he was approached by Mike and Jan Sweeney from Lady Hill Winery when the restaurant he was working at was closing. Mike and Jan wanted Ron to run the tasting room and sell wine. So, of course, Ron said yes and became super familiar with Oregon by visiting tasting room after tasting room.

After a couple of years of working for Lady Hill, Ron’s desire to be back in the restaurant side of the house took him to a few places, including being the GM at Departure inside The Nines Hotel in downtown Portland, his wine bar called Muselet. He would also do pop-ups, which is how Christine Langelier, the GM for Okta, got one of Ron’s cards and the connection to where Ron is today.

There is much more to Ron’s story, but I am running into my word limit for the week. I should also research Christine Langelier, but you are not here for that. Instead, you want to know about the food and the wine!

After finishing up the first course, Ron went downstairs and came back with three bottles of Nebbiolo. What I adore about Ron is how he talked about the wine and had stories to go along with them. I knew nothing about any of them. So I chose the 2009 Sassella Ultimi Raggi Riserva. If you know anything about me, the reason I chose this wine is that it had the best story of the three.

Oh my goodness, Batman, the food was lights-out delicious. I had never been to a high-end dining experience like this, and I feel Okta is setting my expectations for future restaurants pretty damn high! Even as I write this, one aspect that floors me is that the kitchen is right there. You see all the chefs making the food, moving in harmony, and you don’t know they are there unless you look over. You see all the Hollywood movies where the kitchen is this chaotic and loud mess. Not here at all.

Here are all of the food pictures for you.

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Once the Nebbiolo bottle was empty, Ron was going to take it away, but I asked if I could keep it to take home. I want to remember this experience for a very long time! Unfortunately, there was still more food and no wine to pair it with it. That’s ok. Ron poured a 2014 Gran Moraine Blanc de Blanc, a Sauternes that made my toes curl with dessert, and finished off with a 1988 Tawny Port.

I wanted to check out the downstairs and see the cellar. When I went to get up, Ron wasn’t running from table to table. I went over to thank him for a fantastic time. He had a bottle of wine in his hand and told me this is a wine you need to check out from Niew Vineyards. He also told me Seth Morgan Long is the winemaker. My ears perked up. I have looked into the wine, and the 2021 vintage is already allocated. Stay tuned for more details later this year.

Seeing the downstairs of Okta was also spectacular. I was going to get one last beverage, but they were closing up the bar. Walking around, I noticed the maitre d’ was also downstairs walking around. I noticed he had an earpiece to hear and talk to whoever he needed to. Also, check out that cellar!

Walking outside to the valet, my car was waiting for me. I didn’t need a ticket, didn’t need to say a single word. It magically appeared for me, and I am sure this is why the maitre d’ had the earpiece. He let the valet know I was heading out to get the car.

What an unforgettable night! I have been asked a few times if visiting Okta is worth the money. Short answer, yes. Long answer, Okta opened in July of last year, and I feel it is the first of its kind in Wine Country. There are other exceptionally beautiful places to eat and have incredible wine. However, Okta takes it up a few more notches. The total cost for two people with dinner and wine was almost $800. That is the most I have ever spent on a meal! I knew it would be spendy, and the magic number in my head was $500. Did my heart skip a beat or two when I saw the check? Yup! Will I go back? You darn tootin’ I will! Not every day do you get the opportunity to indulge in such a memorable manner.

When you visit Okta and are sitting there trying to figure out what wine(s) to pair with dinner, know that Ron has your back, and when you see him, please tell him, “A.J. said hi!”

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With Gratitude,

A.J.

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PS - From Tim Atkin's email this week:

PPS - It has been interesting to read past newsletters on the off weeks for the podcast. Trying to figure out my "voice" for reading is quite interesting. I feel it is getting better. This week on the podcast, I revisited Abbott Claim.​