Dispatch · Saturday, December 17, 2022
A.J.'s Top Ten Wines of 2022
Allen Holstein's book, Owen Bargreen's top 100, and the ten bottles that blew A.J. away this year, from Aubaine's Athas Chardonnay to Hazelfern Trousseau.
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Oh my goodness, this is the last newsletter for 2022. It has been one heck of a fantastic year, and I can’t wait to see what 2023 brings for all of us! Don’t forget there are now two newsletters. The Events Newsletter starts January 1st and will go out twice a month. This newsletter will continue going out every Saturday, and look for the next one in your inbox, bright and early January 7th!
There wasn’t much wine news this week. Although, I ran across a book called Grape Whisperers by Allen Holstein, and I have to say I am thoroughly enjoying getting more Oregon Wine History back story. If you don’t know, Allen Holstein is Jackson’s dad from Granville. Allen and Ken Wright have some deep roots. Cody Wright, Ken’s son, is the winemaker at Purple Hands and has a Holstein Vineyard designate Pinot.
Also, this week Owen Bargreen published his top 100 wines for the year list. I enjoyed how many Oregon wines were listed! I had to count through to see how many I’ve had out of the list below, and it was only six. Guess I know what I need to do next year……
- 9) 2014 Domaine Serene ‘Recolte Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine 11) 2021 Lange ‘Estate’ Chardonnay
- 13) 2018 Rasa Vineyards ’Veritas Sequitur SJR Vineyard’ Syrah
- 17) 2020 Delmas Syrah
- 21) 2019 Audeant ‘Seven Springs Vineyard’ Chardonnay
- 27) 2018 ROCO ‘RMS’ Sparkling Wine
- 35) 2020 Lingua Franca ‘Inspiras’ Chardonnay
- 39) 2019 Alexana ‘Zena Crown Vineyard’ Pinot Noir
- 40) 2019 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychedelic’ Syrah
- 46) 2018 Tendril ‘Pretender’ White Pinot Noir
- 60) 2021 DeLancellotti ‘La Sorella’ Chardonnay
- 64) 2020 Beaux Frères ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay
- 68) 2019 Brittan Vineyards ‘Basallt Block’ Pinot Noir
- 69) 2019 Hazelfern ‘Rock Block’ Chardonnay
- 73) 2019 The Walls ‘Mahana’ Syrah
- 75) 2019 Goodfellow ‘Whistling Ridge Vineyard’ Chardonnay
- 78) 2016 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Riesling
- 80) 2019 Trisaetum ‘Family Reserve’ Pinot Noir
- 82) 2018 Big Table Farm ‘The Funk Estate’ Syrah
- 87) 2020 Hundred Suns ‘The Rocks District Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah
- 92) 2019 Bergstrom ‘Bergstrom Vineyard’ Pinot Noir
- 93) 2019 Open Claim Chardonnay
I need to be more organized to make a top 100 list, but I can put together a David Letterman Top Ten list of wines that blew me away this year. Before diving into the list, know it is nearly impossible to choose ten wines out of hundreds I had over the year. Even now, looking at the list, I am pulled because other wines could easily be on the list. Maybe it would be easier to choose 100……..
Anyway, here is the list. Enjoy!
2020 Aubaine Athas Chardonnay
Choosing an Aubaine Chardonnay or a Pinot Noir took a lot of work. I went with the Chard because it is more unique. Don’t get me wrong, I freaking adore the ever loving-heck out of the Pinot, but there is something special about this Chard.
In the glass, there is a vibrant yellow color transfixing you on a nose where you get the slightest classic Chardonnay characteristics, but you get the sense there is something more to it. On entry, there is nothing but a smooth transition to your mid-palate, where you are greeted with a delicious ever, expanding mineralogy overflowing into a “YES!” reminding me of a diner scene in the movie “When Harry Met Sally.” The acidity level for this wine is bonkers, with a structure that will stand the test of time.
2019 Audeant Seven Springs Chardonnay
There is a reason Audeant is getting recognized by so many publications. They are producing some fantastic wines. I don’t talk about them enough only because I don’t want to open the bottles I have.
When I first tasted the 2018 Seven Springs Chard, my knees buckled, and I was head over heels. Tasting the 2019 is even better! Somehow, Andrew captured this crisp, wild streak that bewilders your mid-palate. I will always associate the word “feral” with this wine. It is stunningly delicious!
2018 Corollary X-OMNI Blanc de Blanc
Most of us have heard that wine is made in the vineyard. When I heard Corollary was making an X-OMNI Blanc de Blanc, I bought several bottles without tasting it first. I knew the sister vineyard, X-NOVO is an incredible vineyard (thank you, Walter Scott), and I know Dan and Jeanne produce top-notch Sparkling.
The current vintage of this bottling is sold out, but I would keep my eyes peeled for future releases of this bottling!
2019 Granville Louie Pinot Noir
Do you remember me mentioning the Grape Whisperer book earlier? This wine is from Allen’s son Jackson and be prepared to have your socks blown away into the next time zone!
There are zero reasons to get all technical on this wine. It is flat-out fabulous! There are dark fruits with a firm structure for aging, but wow, it is perfectly drinkable right now. Of course, my other bottle will find some deep corner in the cellar, so when I am weak again, it will not be easy to find and open!
2016 Tendril Tightrope Pinot Noir
This is a perfect example of how a bottle gets progressively getting better throughout the night. Looking at the color of the wine in the glass, I already know I am in for a treat! Upon entry, the wine skillfully glides forward, allowing those deep dark red fruits to escape under the radar onto the mid-palate, where you start to appreciate what is occurring. Tightrope opens up to a full-blown 3-ring extravaganza of dark red fruit, slight hints of spice, and an integrated tannin structure cloaked in silk. On the finish, it is all about the encores. When you think it is over, there is another wave of those dark red fruits accompanied by spice, leaving you satisfied repeatedly!
2021 Hazelfern Trousseau
Everything Bryan and Laura produce from Hazelfern is off-the-charts excellent! The 2021 Trousseau is the first vintage of wine from the Hazelfern Vineyard. I remembered a concept label for this wine earlier this year and was super excited. I overanalyzed everything about it and thought it was a Sparkling (yes, Sparkling is coming in about six years), but sadly this label was not Sparkling. It was for the Trousseau, and the concept label was just a concept. We all have to make room to play and imagine!
My knowledge of Trousseau will not fill a thimble, but I had to call this wine out because life is about exploring, and this is a wine to dive into the depths of Trousseau. I adored how much fruit there was on the nose and mid-palate, even after three days! I don’t have the words to describe this wine adequately. All I can say is this is a must to explore and decide for yourself. Oregon is much more than a Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Sparkling wine region.
2019 Kings North Luminous Hills Pinot Noir
All of you know I am the biggest sucker for a great story. So when you bring together a story, unique humans, a tie-in with another vineyard designate, and a killer wine, I can’t help but go all in with Kings North and their Luminous Hills Pinot Noir.
Let’s leave the above paragraph out of the conversation for a few minutes and talk only about the wine. Everything you want in a solid Pinot Noir is here! In the glass, there is a lovely medium translucent red waiting for a big sniffy sniff where you are greeted with those deep dark red fruits. On the mid-palate, the reward of the nose pays off with those luscious dark fruits integrating with a barely noticeable tannin structure. The finish, oh my goodness, the finish takes you away to a time when the commercials playings during your afternoon Soap Operas would say, “Calgon, take me away!”
2015 Lavinea Elton Vineyard Chardonnay
If you are new to the newsletter, I will let you in on a secret that isn’t a secret. I am an Isabelle Meunier fanboy. She is the winemaker for Aubaine, Lavinea, Lazy River, and I have no idea who else she makes wine for. Isabelle makes magic happen, and my fingers are crossed I can get her on the podcast next year.
With this Chardonnay, the color in the glass gives the slightest indication of age. This Chardonnay is seven years old, and a beautiful golden hue is just waiting for exploration! On the nose, all of the classic Chardonnay hints are taking you closer and closer to an island full of sirens swaying you to not listen to your wallet or purse. At room temperature, this wine blows your socks off into the washer and dryer, waiting to be enjoyed over and over. Multiple nights of tasting this wine show off the talent of Isabelle and where this wine will be in ten years.
2012 Lundeen Extra Brut Blanc de Blanc Bunker Hill
Uncovering the gemstones of Oregon Wine Country has always been my mission. Micheal Lundeen fits the definition of a gemstone to a T. He has been making wine longer than most of the current superstars in Oregon, yet not many people know his wines.
Take this 2012 Blanc de Blanc from the Bunker Hill Vineyard. First, if you know the vineyard, it is spectacular and is part of Lingua Franca now, which makes this wine even more special. Second, 2015 is the last vintage from Lundeen for this Blanc de Blanc (I might have a few bottles I am holding onto). Outside of Argyle, I am unaware of many Sparklings older than 2012 in the state, and wow, what a special bottle!
2012 Pray Tell "Piume" Red Blend
I love exploring the World of Wine! When I read this description of this wine comprising of 60% Merlot from the Rocks District and 40% Pinot Noir from Eola-Amity, I was intrigued and bought a few bottles without tasting them beforehand. Yup, this could have gone horrendously, but thankfully it was the exact opposite of horrendous.
In the glass, the wine gives off those deep dark purple colors.
On day one, you get the boldness of the Merlot, but not overpowering. Day Two was mind-blowing! The tannins smoothed out, and those deep dark fruits settled into a luscious expression of craftsmanship. If you can try a Merlot Pinot blend, I suggest feeding your curiosity!
I don’t have the best transition from the top ten wines to today’s topic, but here we go.
The other night I was looking through some 15+ year-old videos. It was a blast to reminisce and think back to where I was so many moons ago. So this week, I decided to do the same thing with the podcast. I know it has been forever and three extra days since the podcast was brought up, and don’t worry, it is coming back next year as well. I already have several interviews waiting to be edited. The next episode is dropping on January 14th, and stay tuned for something a little different this year.
Today is about 30-45-ish second clips of the 15 interviews I did this year. I got so much inspiration from every interview. My hope is you found juicy tidbits over the year as well. Next year, I promise to have more than 15 interviews. I learned so much from the process and have a long list of people to interview.
In case you don’t know or don’t remember the 15 interviews, here they are!
- Jessica Mozeico from Et Fille
- Mac and Sid from King’s North
- Andy Lytle from Aubaine and Lytle Barnett
- Piper Underbrink from Privee
- Wynne Peterson-Nedry from RR and Ridgecrest
- Dan from Utopia
- Janie from Brooks
- Bryan and Laura from Hazelfern
- Jessica and Paden from Approachment
- Leah Jorgensen from Leah Jerrgens Cellars
- Micheal Juergens from Bhutan Wine Company
- Vincent from Vincent Wines
- Philippe Andre - Charles Heidsieck US Ambassador
- Kathryn Hermann from 00 Wines
- Dave and Sara from Bells Up
Listen to the end for my favorite two words from this year!
Here is the highlight reel from all of these wonderful interviews!
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Before I go, I want to thank you for taking the time every single week to read my rambling musings about wine and the people who make it all happen. This thing I do every week has been a joy and it warms my heart to know you get something out of it as well. I hope you have an amazing Christmas full of smiles and warm hearts! If you happen to visit the North Pole and see Santa, please tell him, “A.J. sent me!”
With Gratitude,
A.J.
PS - As requested, here is the Apple Cider Donut recipe I posted on Instagram.
A.J. Weinzettel
Wine journalist & podcaster covering Oregon wine country