Dispatch · Saturday, March 12, 2022
The Oregon Chardonnay Celebration Went Sparkling
This year's IPNC Chardonnay event focused on bubbles. A.J. asked the panel how to get Oregon sparkling noticed, and the answer stuck with him.
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Today is the day we don’t have to wear masks indoors in Oregon. I hope we can proceed with life more positively on so many levels. I saw videos of an event in South Carolina, and it felt a bit like looking backward in time.
Do you know the name, Vitis Terra? Neither did I. Let me ask another question. Do you know Jessica Cortell? Of course, you do! Exciting news for Jessica!! More exciting news, Et-Fille Wines is now a B-Corp!
I attended an IPNC event called The Oregon Chardonnay Celebration (OCC) a couple of weeks back. In 2020, I was at a conference in Florida the same weekend and could not attend. So many thoughts and memories flash before my fingertips, yet you are not here for those memories. You want to know more about the OCC.
This year’s event had a bit of a twist to it. The focus was on Sparkling, which made it way 142 times better!! The OCC is done by the same people who make IPNC happen. With Pinot and Chardonnay having a celebration, it is only a matter of time before Sparkling has a celebration. If my crystal ball is any indication, November will be the month for an Oregon Sparkling Celebration, February will be all about Chardonnay, and July will be Pinot. It may not happen until 2025, but mark my words, it will happen! Plus Sparkling for Thanksgiving dinner, yes, please!
Getting back on track a bit. OCC is a two-day event. This year, Friday night was titled The Sparkling Experience. It was a seated dosage tasting followed by a walk-around tasting. Saturday morning included a seminar with a walk-around tasting and a second walk-around tasting in the afternoon. Unfortunately, I couldn’t attend Friday, but be assured FOMO surrounded me. I saw pictures, and I missed out big time on Champagne Laurent Perrier. Maybe I will get another chance in July.
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Saturday, there was a grand seminar featuring Micheal Davies from A to Z Wineworks, Andrew Davis representing Lytle-Barnett, Geoff from Argyle, Gina Hennen from Adelsheim, Jean Michel Jussiaume from Maison Jussiaume, Kate Payne-Brown from Stoller. The moderator was Elaine Chukan Brown, who was recently appointed in 2022 as Executive Editor US of JancisRobinson.com.
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Side tangent. There are so many wine rabbit holes to go down. I was doing little research on Elaine and found a 100% Rousanne Sparkling. I was so intrigued and curious that I when went to purchase a couple of bottles, but they don’t ship to Oregon. Sigh. I might have to make a phone call tomorrow and see what can be done.
It was lovely sitting there hearing tasting through the wine from the panelists. I was excited some friends got to taste Jean Michel’s, Blanc de Blanc. Towards the end of the seminar, there was Q&A. I couldn’t help myself and asked the first question, which was, “How do we get the word out into the wider world of wine about Oregon Sparkling?” Andrew Davis took the question. His response was, “Two things need to happen. First, actual bottles of Oregon Sparkling need to leave the state. Secondly, we need people to write about it and spread the word.” I have spent way too much time thinking about those words all week.
When I look at 80+% of the Sparkling programs, they are small and designed for members to buy them within a month of being released. I completely understand why this is the case. However, producing Sparkling takes a crazy amount of time (3-5 years) and is expensive, leaving next to nothing left for distribution.
Now, if you think about the bottles of domestic Sparkling in stores, it is mass-produced and probably of lesser quality (sounds like a rabbit hole I need to dive into). Seth Godin has a saying, “People like us do things like this.” In this regard, “People like us, Oregon Wine oenophiles, prefer quality over quantity.” Finding a Sparkling from Domaine Divio, Dion Vineyards, Roco, Et Fille, or numerous other Oregon producers is highly unlikely. So how does Oregon Sparkling get outside our borders?
Andrew’s other comment about people needing to write about Sparkling has so many hamster wheels in my brain spinning at 143 RPMs I won't even begin to bore you. So all I can say is Sparkling Report 2021, here I come!!!
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While tasting the wines, there was no structure or order. Everyone went at their own pace. My top two were:
2018 Maison Jussiaume Brut Blanc de Blanc
On the nose, I got bright fruits popping on entry and quickly quieting down on the mid-palate. The bubble feel integrated quite nicely with a balanced dry finish.
2016 Lytle-Barnett Blanc de Blancs
I adored the creamy nose and how the entry popped, suddenly catching your attention with a rush of bubbles. Great acidity on the mid-palate with a bit of a dry finish. Perfect for some creme fraiche and caviar!
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After the session, we had the opportunity to walk around and taste some Sparkling and lots of Chardonnay. Fifty-five wineries were pouring. I tried to visit wineries I hadn’t tried their wines before, but in all honesty, I didn’t have a plan for the day. It is so rare for my day to have flow. It felt counterproductive to taste methodically.
I saw Janis from Arlyn and might have been too excited to see her. I asked if it was ok to hug her without stopping to wait for an answer. Janis, I am so sorry if I invaded your space. I was beyond thrilled to see you there. You are doing fantastic work, and I was a little too excited. My sincerest apologies.
Some standouts from the walking around were Arlyn, Le Cadeau, Seth Morgen Long, and White Walnut. I will also admit I wasn’t doing the greatest job documenting. However, one Chardonnay stood out over everything else, and that was Jay McDonald’s 2018 EIEIO Yates Conwill Chardonnay. Unfortunately, I didn’t write any notes, but I wasn’t the only one who was blown away. It was stunning!
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After the walk around we met some friends. I expected to share a glass of wine and head home shortly afterward. However, I was not ready for what came next, and in honesty, how does one even summarize a six-hour unplanned after-party. All I can say is wow on so many levels. I enjoyed Bubbles upon Bubbles and then some more Bubbles. I also had an older Cab and a 1999 Cristom.
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The seminar was great, the walk-around tasting was fabulous, but the go with the flow after-party was mind-boggling. The planners at IPNC are fan-freakin-fabulous! If you have not signed up for IPNC in July, I highly suggest signing up before all of the tickets are gone. The ability to taste wines from all over is mind-blowing. The generosity is out of this world. The weather should be stunning. What more can you ask for in a weekend getaway?
With Gratitude,
A.J.
PS - Imagine a night of trying Corollary's X-OMNI Blanc de Blanc, Aubaine's 2018 Anahata Chardonnay, Audeant's 2019 Luminous Hills Pinot Noir, and Harper Voit's 2016 Antiquum Pinot Noir. Believe it or not, this is an actual event surrounded by appetizers, a main course, and dessert. It is the first wine dinner I am hosting at Tavern on Kruse in Lake Oswego. I would be honored to have you join me.
A.J. Weinzettel
Wine journalist & podcaster covering Oregon wine country





